Palaio Faliro: neighbourhood guide

Palaio Faliro: the first port of Athens, with a taste of Istanbul

Before the 5th century BC, Faliro was the main port of Athens, until Piraeus took over the role. In the early 20th century it was a seaside village with a tram to Athens (from 1883), and some interwar villas are still standing. In 1926 a seaplane base also operated here, with flights to Brindisi and Constantinople.

From the mid-20th century many Greeks from Istanbul settled here, because the sea view reminded them of the Bosphorus. They opened patisseries, grocery shops and tavernas, and that Constantinopolitan flavour is still part of the neighbourhood. Today the municipality has 64,863 residents (2021). Further south along the same coast is Glyfada.

The heart of the nightlife is Agiou Alexandrou, from the church of the same name (1916) to the corner with Naiadon. Within 100 metres of that corner you will find more than 10 places. The sea and Flisvos are 400–600 m away. The second axis, Zisimopoulou, is a ten-minute walk. This guide is part of the series Where to live in Athens.

Night bars

Villa Grigio 46

Agiou Alexandrou 46, corner of Naiadon

A 1935 house with a lush inner courtyard and fairy lights in the trees, with an almost cinematic atmosphere. Its identity is the Italian aperitivo: Spritz, Negroni, Bellini, and a wine list of about 70 labels, about 20 of them by the glass. Ideal for a date or a relaxed drink with friends. Next door is its "sister" trattoria, Da Bruno.

MUST-TRY: a Bellini or Negroni in the courtyard
VIBE: villa courtyard with fairy lights
HEADS-UP: the food menu is limited
HOURS: Tuesday–Sunday 10:00–01:00 (Friday–Saturday until 02:00) · closed Monday
PUBLIC RATING: 4.5/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Meni's Cafe Bar

Naiadon 58

A small courtyard paved with island-style flagstones, in the heart of the neighbourhood. The owner welcomes you herself. Music nights, themed events and home-made dishes that change every day. The most "local" place in the guide for a drink after dinner.

MUST-TRY: Mai Tai
VIBE: island courtyard in the middle of the city
HEADS-UP: food depends on the day, and some evenings there is none at all
HOURS: 17:00–01:00 (Friday until 02:00, Saturday until 02:30)
PUBLIC RATING: 4.5/5 (Google, 10/2026)

UPON

Dimokratias 33

An all-day bistro in an industrial space, with marble and wood, an open kitchen and a big wine list. In the morning, coffee and brunch in the courtyard; in the evening, wine, cocktails and fusion cooking. For people who want food and drinks at the same table. Don't leave without the "Lemoni" dessert.

MUST-TRY: sea bass ceviche or the smash burger
VIBE: industrial bistro with a courtyard
HEADS-UP: the menu is short, the dishes uneven, and in summer you need to book a table
HOURS: daily 10:00–02:00
PUBLIC RATING: 4.6/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Mosquito Rock Cafe Bar

Achilleos 70 & Seirinon 128

Perhaps the last real rock bar of the southern suburbs. Classic rock and metal, a garden, "honest" beers and an owner who knows the regulars by name. The alternative for people who don't want the cocktail scene.

MUST-TRY: a beer with classic rock
VIBE: chilled rock bar with a garden
HEADS-UP: the beer is a little pricey
PUBLIC RATING: 4.6/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Meze places / small tavernas

To Bakaliaraki (The Little Cod)

Naiadon 49

It started in 2017 as a tiny shop and grew by word of mouth alone, with no advertising and no delivery. The cooking is simple and done right: fried cod with skordalia (garlic dip), charcoal-grilled prawns with just oil and lemon, stuffed sardines, Cypriot potatoes cut to order and fish soup every day. The oil is changed every 2–3 batches. For families, groups and foreign friends.

MUST-TRY: cod with skordalia and grilled prawns
VIBE: packed neighbourhood fish taverna
HEADS-UP: on Sundays and public holidays you need to book a table. The fish are farmed, and they say so openly
HOURS: Wednesday–Saturday 12:30–23:00 · Sunday 12:30–18:00 · closed Monday–Tuesday
PUBLIC RATING: 4.7/5 (Google, 10/2026)

O Antrikos (Pantopoleion)

Zisimopoulou 97

A meze place set up like an old grocery shop, with most dishes under €10. Bekri meze with slow-cooked pork, potatoes with three fried eggs and xinomyzithra (sour whey cheese), smoked aubergine salad and handmade meatballs with yoghurt. At the end a mastiha liqueur comes on the house. Warm, relaxed, ideal for groups.

MUST-TRY: bekri meze
VIBE: old-time grocery shop
HEADS-UP: at weekends you need to book a table
PRICE: around €15 per person
HOURS: Monday–Friday 18:00–01:00 · Saturday 13:00–01:00 · Sunday 13:00–23:00
PUBLIC RATING: 4.7/5 (Google, 10/2026)

I Mouria (The Mulberry Tree)

Achilleos 101

A grill house since 1954. It was founded by a couple from the Peloponnese, and the grandmother planted the mulberry tree in the courtyard that gave it its name. Today the third generation runs it. Black-and-white photos on the walls, Greek meat cut in front of you, milk-fed lamb chops and a pepper steak "from another era".

MUST-TRY: milk-fed lamb chops
VIBE: family grill house since '54
HEADS-UP: on weekdays it only opens in the evening
HOURS: Tuesday–Friday 19:00–23:00 · Saturday 13:00–17:00 & 20:00–23:00 · Sunday 13:00–17:00 · closed Monday
PUBLIC RATING: 4.7/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Theia Soula (Aunt Soula)

Endymionos 4

The neighbourhood's new meze place, open since October 2025. Small plates for sharing with a modern touch: potatoes with arseniko cheese from Naxos, meatballs with black garlic cream, peinirli (boat-shaped pie) with sausage, chickpea stew with apaki (cured pork). Tsipouro, house wine, entechno and old laika songs. Playful décor, with a neon "Ola mataia" ("All is in vain") sign above the bar.

MUST-TRY: pork belly bites with kaffir lime
VIBE: playful, not pretentious at all
HEADS-UP: the space is a little cramped
PRICE: most dishes under €10
HOURS: Monday–Friday 18:00–01:00 · Saturday 13:00–01:00 · Sunday 13:00–18:00
PUBLIC RATING: 4.6/5 (Google, 10/2026)

To Mikio

Agiou Alexandrou 58

A small Cretan meze place with grandmother's recipes from Apokoronas in Chania and produce brought from Crete. Sfakiani pita (cheese pie with honey), fennel pie, apaki, kaltsounia (small cheese pies) and stamnagathi (wild greens), with tsikoudia. The host makes you feel like a guest in his home. But we will be honest: service is slow, and between dishes you may wait more than half an hour. Go when you are in no hurry.

MUST-TRY: sfakiani pita or apaki
VIBE: a Cretan table in the neighbourhood
HEADS-UP: slow service
HOURS: Tuesday–Friday 19:00–00:00 · Saturday 14:00–00:00 · Sunday 14:00–21:00 · closed Monday
PUBLIC RATING: 4.3/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Coffee and something sweet

GURU The Coffee House

Agiou Alexandrou 54

Perhaps the best coffee on Agiou Alexandrou. It roasts its own coffee and has V60 with rotating single origins, as well as espresso and Greek coffee. If you are hungry, there are home-made pies (herb cheese pie, spinach pie, bougatsa), pistachio croissants and bowls. The ideal stop before a walk by the sea.

MUST-TRY: a single-origin V60 or a freddo, with a pistachio croissant
VIBE: neighbourhood coffee roastery
HEADS-UP: no full brunch
HOURS: Monday–Friday 07:00–21:00 · weekends 07:00–20:00
PUBLIC RATING: 4.7/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Alma Patisserie

Agiou Alexandrou 56

The story begins in 1922 at a patisserie in Alexandria, while Alma opened in Faliro after 1972. The furniture and equipment are original, untouched since then. Millefeuille, éclairs, butter biscuits, petits fours and a tsoureki (sweet bread) with mastiha and mahlepi that brings a queue onto the pavement at Easter.

MUST-TRY: millefeuille and tsoureki
VIBE: vintage patisserie with Alexandrian roots
HEADS-UP: the morning cheese pie sells out early
HOURS: Monday–Saturday 08:00–21:00 · Sunday 09:00–20:00
PUBLIC RATING: 4.9/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Zuccherino

Ag. Alexandrou & Naiadon

The local institution for sweets since 1988. A huge display counter, dozens of ice-cream flavours every day and a large outdoor area, friendly to families with pushchairs too. The chocolate soup and the profiteroles are its classics.

MUST-TRY: chocolate soup or profiteroles
VIBE: buzzing dessert corner
HEADS-UP: some desserts are very sweet for their price
HOURS: 08:00–00:00 (Friday until 00:30, Saturday until 01:00)
PUBLIC RATING: 4.4/5 (Google, 10/2026)

Sea, green space and culture

Flisvos Park and Marina

About 600 m from Agiou Alexandrou

About 80 stremmata (around 8 hectares) of green space by the sea, with more than 3,000 trees, mini football and basketball courts and an outdoor gym. The playground (2008) is also accessible to children with disabilities. Next to it is the marina with 310 berths, and in summer the Cine Flisvos open-air cinema (since 2003) shows films right by the waves.

Battleship "G. Averof"

Park of Naval Tradition, Trocadero, about 1 km

The flagship at the naval battles of Elli (1912) and Lemnos (1913), and a floating museum since 1984. It is the only armoured cruiser of its type surviving anywhere in the world, 140 m long. In the same park you will also see the destroyer "Velos" and the trireme "Olympias".

HOURS: Tuesday–Friday 09:00–14:00 · weekends 10:00–17:00 · closed Monday

Benaki Toy Museum

Poseidonos 14 & Tritonos 1

A late 19th-century tower house with Gothic features, home to a collection of about 20,000 toys. About 3,000 are on display. Perfect for a rainy Sunday with children, and not only then.

HOURS: Thursday–Sunday 10:00–18:00

Flisvos–Batis–Edem seafront

The seafront promenade runs without a break along Poseidonos, ideal for running with a view of the Saronic Gulf. Next to the marina is the municipality's Sports and Cultural Centre with swimming pools, tennis and basketball, as well as the "Sofia Befon" indoor arena. For swimming, there is the organised beach at Edem.

Honourable mentions and practical info

Honourable mentions:

Kyr Aristos (Zisimopoulou 96): a kebab house with Istanbul flavours. Wrapped kebab with yoghurt and pastourma pie. Public rating 4.4/5
Psipsina (Zisimopoulou 96): a fish taverna with fish from Mytilene. Taramasalata, grilled prawns and salt-crusted fish. Public rating 4.5/5
Da Bruno (Agiou Alexandrou 46): an Italian trattoria since 1985, with spaghetti tossed in a Parmesan wheel. Public rating 4.4/5
Rio (Proteos 4 & Mouson): an Istanbul-style patisserie with a baba made to a secret recipe from Constantinople. Public rating 4.6/5

Note: the corner of Agiou Alexandrou & Naiadon is the heart of the neighbourhood. If you only have one evening, eat at To Bakaliaraki, have a drink at Villa Grigio and finish with dessert at Zuccherino.

Transport:

Tram: two lines, T6 (Syntagma–Pikrodafni) and T7 (Akti Poseidonos–Asklipieio Voulas). The stops Flisvos, Flisvos Park, Trocadero, Batis, Mouson and Edem serve the area.
Metro: there is no station in Palaio Faliro. The connection is by tram.
Buses: X96 (Piraeus–Airport). Timetables and other routes at oasa.gr.
Street market (laiki): every Friday on Niriidon.

Thinking of living in Palaio Faliro? See PlotX properties in Athens, for sale and for rent. On the same coast: the guide to Glyfada. Further inland, Agios Dimitrios.